Many Shades of Grès Fashion Becomes Art

Outstanding fashion by one of the most important pioneers of 20th-century haute couture, alongside student designs inspired by her work – the Kunstgewerbemuseum (KGM, Museum of Applied Arts) presents, for the first time in the German-speaking world, the fascinating work of French fashion designer Madame Grès (1903–1993). At the heart of the exhibition is the KGM's collection of 25 Grès models, one of the largest outside of Pariswhich was Grès’ creative base. In collaboration with the “School of Culture and Design” department of the Berlin University of Applied Sciences, the exhibition explores the extraordinary couturière's from various perspectives. The exhibition is divided into nine sections, showcasing around 150 diverse exhibits that can be interpreted as cross-references to the 25 models by Madame Grès, which literally take center stage. The displays include clothing on busts and mannequins, accessories, graphics, drawings, photographs, sculptures, textile objects, and multimedia installations (films, projections). These are complemented by student contributions and contextualizing works, such as sculptures, paintings, photographs, graphics, films, and virtual elements. Who was Madame Grès? Germaine Émilie Krebs began her career in the early 1930s under the name Mademoiselle Alix, co-founding the fashion house “Alix Barton” with Julie Barton. One of the most significant objects in the Kunstgewerbemuseum’s collection from this period is a shimmering evening blouse made of net fabric adorned with faceted gemstones. After 1937, she changed her name to Alix Grès, and eventually became known in fashion history as “Madame Grès”. Madame Grès’ handling of fabric is unparalleled. Several meters of fabric are gathered, folded, and draped into just a few centimeters, creating an impressive volume. Madame Grès, who left behind few personal statements, once shared with the press that she would design on the model rather than on the table, and that her scissors were her most important tool. What is particularly fascinating is the refinement with which she would transform a fundamentally simple pattern into a highly complex sculpture on the body. Classical Antiquity and Timeless Elegance She gained fame for her floor-length, pleated dresses, which were inspired by ancient sculptures. Madame Grès, who reportedly wanted to become a sculptor, designed dresses for icons like Grace Kelly, Greta Garbo, and Marlene Dietrich. The timeless elegance of her designs, referencing classical antiquity, underscores her enduring relevance. The exhibition highlights this important aspect by showcasing her work alongside artifacts from the Antikensammlung , the Skulpturensammlung and the Gemäldegalerie . A special exhibition of the Kunstgewerbemuseum – Staatliche Museen zu Berlin with the School of Culture and Design at the Hochschule für Technik und Wirtschaft Berlin Read more Toggle Design / Fashion Crafts